Mister Vintage

 


NYLON sets the scene for a lady-on-her-way-to-a-party. In the upper photograph, nylon appears in a handsome bedspread of Mallinson's "Nymal" taffeta, made by N. Sumergrade, $50 at Altman's, New York; City of Paris, San Francisco. "Nymal" is made in 15 colors; the finish is permanent ; it washes well, needs no ironing. Dress, Christian Dior—New York. All furniture by Baker. 

Below: indirect light falls softly through nylon marquisette curtains by Vogue-Robertson, 108" length, $7.95 at Abraham & Straus, Brooklyn. These are made in white and six colors, are washable and dry smooth and crisp, require minimum ironing. Hat, Christian Dior—New York. 



Below: nylon appears as distinguished "Imperial Servana" carpet by Nye-Wait, a $30 a quare yard at Marshall Field, Chicago; Barker Bros., Los Angeles; Lord & Taylor, New York. Choose from 10 colors with the assurance that it wears wonderfully. Slippers on model by Julianelli. 



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Peggy Dow, Universal-International starlet, in her favorite casual separates, made by Duchess Royal in corduroy. Her skirt features an inverted front pleat, and the boxy jacket has a zipper closing. Skirt and jacket available in ivory, wheat, red, yearling, laurel green. Sizes 10 to 20. Under $15 each. Her sweater is by Tish-U-Knit; her gloves are American-knit shorties. 

“Miss Cari-All” is the name Capeway has given the handsome 12-inch purse-and-overnight-bag combination Peggy is carrying. Of genuine split cowhide, it has double handies, zipped top, sturdy steel frame and two handy inside pockets. Here is a piece of luggage that can go on a weekend visit or a two-week Summer vacation. It sells for about $6, including luxury tax.


Peggy, shown in lounge of a Pan American Stratocruiser, selects a suit by Junior Accent of Verney Caprice faille, accented by a short cape and peplum. It has white pique collar and cuffs and buttons all the way down the front. In navy and black. Sizes 9 to 15. Under $25. 



In her trim suit by Sporteens, Peggy is a bright spot on the horizon. Made of soft all-wool flannel, it has a gored skirt and lumberjacket-style top with cap sleeves. In five colors—shrimp, mint, caramel, navy and sea blue. Sizes 10 to 20. Skirt about $8 and jacket about $6. 
To complete this ensemble, Peggy chooses a Sage blouse by Revelation. Made of fine washable celanese Carlyle crepe, it is available in white, magnolia pink, blue, green and navy. Sizes 32 to 38. Costs about $5. Credit Capeway for the four-piece set of high-fashion airplane luggage. 


source: Screenland Magazine | Zetu Harrys collection

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Brocades copied from priceless antique patterns, 14-carat gold thread and trimmings, embroidery Oriental in feeling and so rich it has a third dimension—all of these make up a California extravaganza in fashions for evening wear. These opulent styles are shown here along with another West Coast extravaganza: Universal's set for the movie version of Flower Drum Song, a costly and meticulous recreation of San Francisco's Chinatown. 



Fabric is given the whole play in these clothes which are a culmination of the trend toward the elegant and sumptuous. The shapes are tailored and timeless, as in the two short evening dresses above by Gustave Tassell, a winner of this fall's Fashion Critics' Award. They are inevitably, expensive($300 to $875) since the brocades cost up to $40 a yard. But because they are so simply cut they are also an investment that will be stylish for years. 




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images and info provided by the LIFE Magazine / LIFE Magazine International / LIFE Magazine Atlantic ARCHIVE from the Zetu Harrys Collection


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Adrian Adolph Greenburg, professionally known as Adrian is one of the legends, or to quote what Michel Adam told me at a Fashion TV show - Adrian is one of the Gods of fashion. Disciple of  Rudolph Valentino, Adrian is mostly known for the costumes he designed for "The Wizard of Oz". During his career he designed costumes for hundreds of Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer films between 1928 and 1941.

In february 1950 he designed, exclusively for the debut number of the cherished art, fashion and lifestyle magazine - FLAIR, a fnatastic dress named "Wind on the Sand".




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The black knit bathing suit already gives promise of becoming next summer's version of the basic black dress. Descended from the stark "tank suit" which Annette Kellerman started on its way some 40 years ago. the new black knits come with patterned necklines and dec-orative trimmings. Black knit itself is traditionally kind to most figures but wearers who need no help can find exceedingly bare versions. Sparsest suit is the abbreviated bikini which is still popular in Europe and has been having a limited high-style revival in this country. These basic black swimsuits in wool or cotton knit are being made by big-volume manufacturers of playclothes as well as by leading sportswear designers. But they also appear in a new style by Dior , who has just begun designing bathing suits for U.S. wearers. 





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images and info provided by the LIFE Magazine / LIFE Magazine International / LIFE Magazine Atlantic ARCHIVE from the Zetu Harrys Collection

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The thing that makes Luis Estevez the newest big success in U.S. fashion is his distinctive way with necklines. They cross, scoop, drape and cling to form tricky geometric patterns on the wearer's shoulders and have won an enthusiastic following among postdebutantes, young matrons and career girls. Estevez, who is only 26, has been turning out full collections for barely a year, yet in that short time more than S3 million of his clothes have been sold in 900 U.S. stores. The young designer, who was born in Havana, is descended from Spanish nobility including Count Bernardo de Galvez, 18th Century viceroy of Mexico, for whom Galveston, Texas is named. After studying to be an architect, Estevez shifted to fashion and worked in a stable of designers in New York and Paris before joining the U.S. firm of Grenelle last year. His designs are simple, lean heavily to black and white, sell at medium prices. Although he produces for a mass market, he keeps his pretty wife in mind when creating clothes: "She likes her dresses to have sharp lines and to be as sexy as possible within the boundaries of good taste." 


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images and info provided by the LIFE Magazine / LIFE Magazine International / LIFE Magazine Atlantic ARCHIVE from the Zetu Harrys Collection

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The lowly black-and-red bandanna, a staple in the farmer's wardrobe for more than a century, has now been fetched off the farm to dress up stylish cityfolk. This season designers are using bandanna-printed cotton to enliven shorts, slacks, raincoats and even evening 'dresses for spring and early summer. The pattern tends to be overpowering in large doses so the new bandanna styles use generous amounts of plain white or black, as shown here. to counteract the traditional red background. Bandanna prints are now available in almost every species of medium-priced apparel, and any solid color outfit can be brightened up by adding an ordinary bandanna handkerchief available at the ten-cent store. 

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images and info provided by the LIFE Magazine / LIFE Magazine International / LIFE Magazine Atlantic ARCHIVE from the Zetu Harrys Collection

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That floating-on-air feeling of "weightless" wool is yours in this cottage weave tweed suit-and-stole ensemble. Designed by Briarbrook, it shows off the clean classic look that's such big news for spring. See how this pure silhouette puts all the attention on the rich wool fabric. This year, more than ever, fashion reminds us that the luxurious textures of wool can't be impersonated 


Forecast for blue skies .. . these two fresh silhouettes designed by Zelinka-Matlick. In chamois yellow "weightless" wool, the suit at left displays the new bloused-back jacket. At right, the close-moulded suit in pussy-willow brown, freshened with polka-dots. Both beautiful examples of wool's richer colors, wool's tailoring mastery that give you more fashion for your dollar than any other fabric 



Newest partner to the suit . . . its own sleeveless coat! Dan Milstein designs the ensemble of "weightless" wool worsted flannel. Even in this lightest of weaves, wool has a natural "spring.back" that keeps your suit looking "first-day" fresh 

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After centuries of being merely practical, durable and generally available, leather has now acquired a soft touch and a look to match. America's $4 billion leather industry has developed flexible leather which radially changes both its appearance and use. In-stead of hidebound blacks and tans, there are bright colors, like hot pink and orange, and even printed patterns. Fashionable pale colors have become practical through a new process which makes some leathers washable. For early spring, designers are using these skins, which wear better than their sturdy forebears, for such varied styles as shorts, slacks and turbans. 





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images and info provided by the LIFE Magazine / LIFE Magazine International / LIFE Magazine Atlantic ARCHIVE from the Zetu Harrys Collection

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Art and fashion come close together in this gallery of new styles which are only a little removed from the canvases of great modern painters. Works of Chagall, Leger, Picasso, Mire and Dufy have been reproduced on cotton cloth by a U.S. firm, Fuller Fabrics, and made into early resort clothes by Claire McCardell, most American of designers. LIFE took the clothes to the painters' studios in Europe where, in their first fashion photographs, the artists showed reactions ranging from extreme modesty (Chagall stayed out of the picture) to utter ham. Seen first in these fashions, the prints will be available by the yard next month. 



Marc Chagall helped to pose American Ivy Nicholson so that she stood against his Le Soleil Rouge looking as if she were drifting off into the romantic, dreamlike painting. She wears an informal dinner dress ($60) which is made in splotchy springlike colors pat-terned with disembodied figures characteristic of work by Chagall. The photograph was taken in artist's warm, crowded studio in Vence, France. 

Two weeks before his death, Fernand Uger  posed for final portrait  in the Paris studio he had occupied since 1913. The print which British Model Anne Gunning wears is in boldly drawn, boldly colored style of Leger's work—best seen above in his painting of two women  and in half-hidden still life. Fabric is made into dinner dress with high neck, long sleeves ($60) in the new ankle length. 






Since Raoul Dufy's death in 1953, his widow has lived in the Villa de Cuelma in Nice where her salon  is spectacularly hung with 42 of his paintings. In the salon French Model Jacky Maul wears cocktail dress with exaggerated high waist ($40) in pattern of sailboats and waves adapted from Daily seascape. The large painting, Aphrodite, was done in 1935 and worked over again by the artist in 1943. Painting at top left is called The Breakwater. 



Spanish Painter Joan Miro has a tiny studio in Barcelona where his artist's brushes and paint tubes are lined up with meticulous care. A painter of gay can-vases, the artist admired the straw hat perched gaily on British Model Margaret Phillips. She also wears a long-sleeved wool jersey bathing suit and wide-skirted pinafore ($58) in print, mostly birds, inspired by a Miro abstraction. Oddments in atelier include a bicycle which Miro modeled of breadsticks and an African sculpture. Behind Miro is the canvas he is now working on. 




Permitting this rare photo-graphic session in his new Cannes villa, to California , Picasso received top French Model Bettina Craziani amid the clutter of packing crates and the profusion of paintings completed since he moved in last spring. In his fashion debut, Picasso wears a fedora and carries a sword while Bettina models shirt reproducing a Picasso still life and red wool jersey slacks with elastic at ankles ($55). Carrying on by herself , she wears dress with hack fullness emphasized by pockets ($40) done in fish de-sign from a Picasso ceramic. 

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images and info provided by the LIFE Magazine / LIFE Magazine International / LIFE Magazine Atlantic ARCHIVE from the Zetu Harrys Collection

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At Atlantic City, Sharon Kay Ritchie failed to finish among the top three girls in swimsuit and talent contests. But high ratings in personality, character and facial beauty made her Miss America.

When the contest ended. Sharon Kay packed away her bathing suit and made ready to capitalize on herself as a tidy business property. Her sponsors-citrus fruit growers. makers of autos, fabrics, TV sets and soaps-have each given her $2.500 and will add $100 for every day they employ her. She will make $500 a day for appearances at such affairs as the Alabama Peanut Festival. If her zeal and stamina hold up, Sharon Kay should earn $60,000 in her year as queen.

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images and info provided by the LIFE Magazine / LIFE Magazine International / LIFE Magazine Atlantic ARCHIVE from the Zetu Harrys Collection

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Who is today's "best-dressed girl?? She's the genius who looks fresh ... when work is frantic. 15 antic. That busy figure of tailored perfection ... who at 5... without a change of costume ... steps off to a romantic evening. How does she do it on her weekly pay check? Very simple. She demands the fullest measure of fashion - pure wool. For she knows wool's good looks never let her down. Wool's richer textures and colors rise to any occasion. And even if you work your wool dress overtime, it won't look tired ... because wool has a natural spring back that shakes off wrinkles. You'll find that a wool wardrobe practically takes care of itself!





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The staple woolen sweater is turning up this season in some surprising new shapes and guises. The most startling sweater is the floor length evening dress which is made by elongating a cardigan or pull-over . These comfortable sweater dresses are worn mostly for entertain. ing at home as a change from the familiar at-home pants. They also pro. vide a way of showing off a bathing suit figure in midwinter. In addition to these skinny indoor styles, the bulky sweaters popular on football benches in the 20s are appearing as top-heavy fall wraps.





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images and info provided by the LIFE Magazine / LIFE Magazine International / LIFE Magazine Atlantic ARCHIVE from the Zetu Harrys Collection

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The eye-socking effect created by the new fire engine red outfits shown here is the most exciting development in this fall's fashions. Not only does red flare up in all of the top American collections but designers accentuate the top-to-toe glare with red hats, handbags and shoes, as well as little touches of bright orange and vibrant pink. This sizzling display includes such outstanding new silhouettes as the slim and unbelted street dress, an above-ankle length for evening, a cocktail dress combining plaid wool and chiffon, a dressy tweed coat for town and a slim wool coat which touches the floor. There is enough variety for anyone to achieve a bonfire look this season.

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images and info provided by the LIFE Magazine / LIFE Magazine International / LIFE Magazine Atlantic ARCHIVE from the Zetu Harrys Collection

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For fashion professionals at the fall collections, it seemed like the old Paris. The French designers were not attempting to enforce new shapes or outmode last year's wardrobe. Instead they were presenting a big showcase of beauti. ful and splendid clothes. These pictures give Americans a first chance to see in color the rich and varied new Paris fashions.





The minor changes in silhouette that characterized both day and evening dresses appeared most dramatically in the formal clothes. Waists, seldom indented firmly at the natural line, were high or low or simply loose. Many of the fabrics were rich with embroidery but the most admired dress in Paris, done by Balenciaga, was almost starkly simple (next page). Dior made a big hit with a drifting chiffon (see cover). Short in front and long in back, it was designed to show off the female figure and was promptly snapped up by Marlene Dietrich. The elegant clothes in these photographs, all stars of their collections, are displayed against the elegant backgrounds of old Paris.




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images and info provided by the LIFE Magazine / LIFE Magazine International / LIFE Magazine Atlantic ARCHIVE from the Zetu Harrys Collection

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